5th International workshop on wave hindcasting and forecasting

January 26-30, 1998,, Monterey, Florida

preprints, published by Environment Canada

Full text available via: https://repository.tudelft.nl/view/hydro/uuid:4c19cbad-9dbe-4e2b-9289-a554ee5080f1/

Session A: Cilimatologies
A1 A Long Term North Atlantic Wave Hindcast; Val R. Swail, Atmospheric
Environment Service, Downsview, Ontario; V.J. Cardone and A. T. Cox, Oceanweather, Inc

A2 Results of WASA Wave Hindcast; Heinz Gunther, W. Rosenthal, M. Stawarz,
GKSS Forschungszentrum Geesthacht, Geesthacht, Germany:
J.C. Carretero, M. Gomez, I. Lozano, O. Serrano, Clima Maritimo, Madrid, Spain;
M. Reistad, Det Norske Meteorological Institut, Bergen, Norway 17

A3 Evaluation NCEP/NCAR Reanalyis Project Marine Surface Wind Products
for a Long Term North Atlantic Wave Hindcast; Andrew T. Cox and V.d. Cardone,
Oceanweather, Inc., Cos Cob, CT; V. R. Swail, Atmospheric Environment Service,
Downsview, Ontario

A4 Wave Climate on the British Columbia Coast; Diane Masson, Institute of Ocean
Sciences, Sidney, British Columbia

A5 Analysis of Hurricane Cycles in Florida; Lithwa Lin, U.S. Army Engineer
Waterways Experiment Station. Vicksburg, MS; and R.G. Dean, University of
Florida, Gainesville, FL ^2

A6 Wave Climate Studies for Sebastian Inlet; William R. Dally and L.E. Harris,
Florida Institute of Technology, Melbourne, FL; W.G. Grosskopf, Offshore and
Coastal Technologies, Inc., Avondale, PA 56

A7 Wind-Wave Climate of the Black Sea and the Turkish Coasts (NATO
TU-WAVES Project); Erdal Öozhan and S. Abdalla, Ocean Engineering
Research Center, Middel East Technical University, Ankara, Turkey 71

Session B: Deep Water Modeling
B1 WAM Validation of Pacific Swell; Paul A. Wittmann, Fleet Numerical Meteorology
and Oceanography Center, Monterey, CA; W.C. O'Reilly, Naval Post Graduate
School, Monterey, CA

B2 Hindcasting Waves from Storms in tlie Tasman Sea; Andrew K. Laing and
S.d. Reid, National Institute of Water and Atmosplieric Researcli, Wellington,
New Zealand 88

B3 Intercomparing Third-Generation Wave Model Nesting; R Padilla, P. Osuna,
J.tvtonbaliu, Hydraulics Laboratory, K.U. Leuven de Croylaan, Hervelee, Belgium;
L.H. Holthuijsen, Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands 102

B4 Wind-Wave Modeling in Waters with Restricted Fetches; Henrik Kofoed-Hansen,
International Research Centre for Computational Hydrodynamics, Horsholm, Denmark;
H.K. dohnson, Danish Hydraulic Institute, Horsholm, Denmark; d. Hojstrup and B. Lange,
Riso National Laboratory, Roskilde, Denmark 113

B5 Integration of Source Terms in WAM; dulia Hargreaves and d.D. Annan, Proudman
Oceanographic Laboratory, Birkenhead, Merseyside, United Kingdom 128

B6 Comparison of Four Wave Prediction Models; Carlos Sanchez and A. Contreras,
Comision Federal de Electricidad, Mexico; R. Silva and G. Govaere, Institute de
Ingenieria, Mexico 134

Session C: Measurements
C1 Real-Time Wave Data Collection System at Sebastian Inlet, Florida; Lee E. Harris,
B.d. Winder, M.C. Perry, Florida Institute of Technology, Melbourne, FL;
E.F. Childress, Woods Hole Group, Cataumet, MA 146

C2 High-Resolution Directional Wave Measurements from Air-Sea Interaction
Spar Buoy in the Gulf of Mexico; Mark A. Donelan, H.C. Graber, W.M. Drennan,
University of Miami, Miami, FL; E.A. Terray, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution,
Woods Hole, MA *154

C3 Separation of Seas and Swells from NDBC Buoy Wave Data; David W. Wang,
Computer Sciences Corporation, Stennis Space Center, MS and D. Gilhousen,
National Data Buoy Center, Stennis Space Center, MS 155

C4 Measurement of Winds and Waves from A Nomad Buoy in High Seastates;
S.G.P. Skey and K. Berger-North, Axys Environment Consulting Ltd; and
V.R. Swail, Atmospheric Environment Service, Downsview, Ontario 163

Session D: Shallow-Water Modeling
D1 Wave Modelling in the Great Barrier Reef: Incorporating Sub-grid Scale
Effects; Thomas Hardy, L.B. Mason, and d.D. McConochie, dames Cook
University, Queensland, Australia 176

D2 Use of Coupled Numerical Wave Models to Simulate the Littoral Environment
from Deep Water to the Beach; Rick Aliard and L. Hsu, Naval Research Laboratory,
Stennis Space Center, MS; d.M. Smith, U.S. Army Engineer Waten/vays Experiment
Station, Vicksburg, MS; M. Earle and T. Mettlach, Neptune Sciences, Inc.; K. Miles,
Sverdrup Technology, Inc., Stennis Space Center, MS 187

D3 Modeling Waves at Ponce de Leon Inlet, Florida; dane McKee Smith, A. Militelllo,
S.J. Smith, U.S. Army Engineer V\/aten/vays Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS 201

D4 Comparing the Second-Generation "HISWA" Wave Model with the
Third-Generation "SWAN" Wave Model; Nico Booij, L H. Holthuijsen, Id.G.
Haagsma. Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands 215

D5 A Verification of the Third-Generation Wave Model "SWAN"; Leo H. Holthuijsen.
R.C. Ris. N. Booij, Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands 223

Session E: Source Terms
E1 Modeling of Effectiveness of Wave Damping Structures in Wadden Sea
Areas; Hanz D. Niemeyer and R. Kaiser, Coastal Research Station of the Lower
Saxonian, East Frisia, Germany 231

E2 Wave Hindcasts Forced by Scatterometer Wind Fields; William M. Perrie,
B. Toulany, and M. Dowd, Bedford Institute of Oceanography, Dartmouth,
Nova Scotia 239

E3 Shallow Water Wave Modeling with Nonlinear Dissipation: Application to
Small Scale Tidal Systems; Christoph Schneggenburger, H. Gunther, and
W. Rosenthal, GKSS-Forschungszentrum Geesthacht. Geesthacht, Germany 242

Session F: Nonlinear Interactions
F1 Wave-Wave Interactions in A New Coastal Wave Model; Ray-Qunig Un and W. M. Perrie.
David Taylor Model Basin. Bethesda, MD

F2 Nonlinear Source Function in the Coastal Wave Model; Ray-Qunig Lin and W. Kuang,
David Taylor Model Basin, Bethesda, MD

F3 New Perspective on Three-Wave Resonant Interactions in Shallow-Water Ocean
Surface Waves; A.R. Osborne, Dipartimento di Fisica Generale dell'Universita.
Torino, Italy and M. Petti, Dipartimento de Ingeneria Civile, Sezione Idraulica, Firenze,
Italy

F4 5 Wave Interactions in the Spectra Surface Waves;
ValeriA. Kalmykov, dohn Hopkins University, Baltimore, MD

F5 Swell Evolution in the Sea of Finite Depth;
ValeriA. Kalmykov, John Hopkins University, Baltimore, MD 292

F6 Numerical Computations of the Nonlinear Energy Transfer of Gravity-Wave
Spectra in Finite Water Depths; Noriaki Hashimoto, H. Tsuruya, and Y. Nakagav/a,
Port and Harbour Research Institute, Ministry of Transport, Nagase, Yokosuka, Japan 301

Session G: Prediction Systems
G1 Use of Two NCEP/NCAR Reanalyis Products to Hindcast the Wave Climate at
Nome Alaska; Jon Hubertz, Applied Coastal Modeling, Vicksburg, MS and
W.A. Brandon, U.S. Army Engineer Watenvays Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS 322

G2 Comparison of Model Output of Wind and Wave Parameters with Spaceborne
Altimeter Measurements; P.A. Hwang, W.d. Teague, G.A. dacobs. Oceanography
Division, Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS; S.M. Bratos and
D. T. Resio, U.S. Army Watenfl/ays Experiment Station; D.W. Wang, Computer
Sciences Corporation, Stennis Space Center, MS 335

G3 Impact of the Assimilation of ERS-1 and ERS-2 Data Into A North Atlantic
Regional Version of WAM; Laurie d. Wilson, Environment Canada, Dorval Quebec;
E. Dunlap, ASA Consulting Limited, Halifax, Nova Scotia; R. Olsen, Satlantic, Inc.,
Halifax, Nova Scotia 344

G4 SEA21 - Forecasting Operability of Marine Installations; Michael Stiassnie and
Michael Glozman, Coastal and Marine Engineering Research Institute, Technion City,
Haifa, Israel 352

G5 A Wave Forecasting System for the Spanish Harbors; d.C. Carretero, M.G. Lahoz,
E.A. Fanjul, M.A. Alfonso-Munoyerro, d.D.L. Maldonado, Clima Maritimo,
Puertos de Estado, Madrid, Spain 367

Session H: Coupled Predictions
HI A 2-D Wave Energy Spectrum Model in Shallow Water; K. Angelidis and
C. Koutitas, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, Thessaloniki, Greece 381

H2 Use of Phase-Revolving Numerical Wave Models in Coastal Areas, dames M.
Kaihatu and L. Hsu, Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS;
W.E. Rogers, Planning Systems, Inc., Stennis Space Center, MS; W.C. O'Reilly,
Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA 389

H3 Implications of Friction Velocity on Air-Sea Coupled Dynamics; Wiiliam M. Perrie,
L.Wang, B. Toulany, and d. Yang, Bedford Institute of Oceanography, Nova Scotia,
Canada 404

H4 A Bi-directional Coupling Between an Atmospheric Model and an Ocean
Wave Model Part 1: Atmospheric Aspects; Serge Desjardins, d. Mailhot,
Ld. Wilson, Atmospheric Environment Service, Don/al, Quebec, Canada; R. Lalebeharry,
Atmospheric Environment Service, Downsview, Ontario, Canada

H5 A Bi-directional Coupling Between an Atmospheric Model and an Ocean
Wave Model Part 2: Ocean Wave Aspects; Roop Lalebeharry, Atmospheric
Environment Service, Dorval Quebec, Canada; S. Desjardins, d. Mailhot,
L. J. Wilson, Atmospheric Environment Service, Dorval, Quebec, Canada

Session I: Model Integrations and Applications
I1 The Effect of the Sea Floor Erosion on Wave Hindcasting in Coastal Areas
of Bohai Sea, Li Luping, First Institute of Oceanography, SOA, Qingdao, China 421

I2 Activities of the WISE Group; Leo H. Holthuijsen, Delft University of Technology,
Delft, The Netherlands and L. Cavaleri, Instituto Studio Diamica Grandi Masse,
Venice, Italy

I3 Winter Conditions of the Wave Activity at Rio de Janeiro Simulated by
Numerical Wave Models; Valdir Innocentini, Instituto Nacional de Pesquisas
Espaciais, Sao dose dos Campos, Brazil and E.S.C. Neto, Instituto de Pesquisas
Meteorologicas, Bauru, Brazil '

I4 Estimation of Extreme Heights of Wind Waves in the Coastal Sea Area;
Igor Lavrenov, V.N. Bokov, V.l. Dymov, T.A. Pasechnik, N.P. Yakovleva, Arctic and
Antarctic Research Institute State Scientific Center of the Russian Federation,
I.N. Davidan,, State Oceanography Institute, St Petersburg, Russia 439

I5 Probabilistic Description of Crest Heights of Ocean Waves,- Sverre Haver
Statoil, Exploration and Production Technology and D. Karunakaran, Sintef,
Civil and Environmental Engineering 451

I6 Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting: Their Role in Ensuring the Safety of
Personnel Involved in Offshore Oil and Gas Exploitation; Donald Smith,
Offshore Safety Division of the UK Health and Safety Executive, Mersyside, United
Kingdom

I7 An Assessment of Wave Modeling Technology; Vincent d. Cardone, Oceanweather.
Inc Cos Cob, CTand D.T. Resio, U.S. Army Engineer WatenA/ays Experiment
Station, Vicksburg, MS 468

Session P: Poster/Display
PI Interaction of Sea and Swell in Ocean Wave Models; Charles L. Vincent and D.T. Resio,
USAE Watenfl/ays Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS P1P2 Implications of Exact Solutions to the Nonlinear Wave-Wave Interaction Source
Function; Robert E. densen and D.T. Resio, USAE Watenfi/ays Experiment Station,
Vicksburg, MS

P3 Evaluation of Shallow Water Wave Prediction over the Inner Shelf with HF Radar and
In-Situ Measurements; Hans C. Graber, University of Miami, Miami, FL; R.E. Jensen,
USAE Watenvays Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS; Herbers, T.H.C, Naval
Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA PSP4 Nested Wave Model for the Baltic Sea; Lennart Funkquist, Swedish Meteorological
and Hydrological Institute, Norrkoping, Sweden P4P5 Directional Spreading of Measured and Hindcasted Wave Spectra, George Z.
Forrisstall, Shell International E&P Company; d.A. Greenwood, Oceanweather, Inc.,
Cos Cob, CT